The Dolomites: 4 Unforgettable Days of Adventure with a Child

The Dolomites are not just mountains, they’re a fairytale landscape that you’ll want to experience again and again. Their snow-capped peaks, emerald valleys, and crystal-clear lakes are mesmerizing at first sight. If you’ve never been to the Dolomites, be sure to plan a trip there. I assure you, these mountains will leave you breathless.

I’ve prepared some tips and recommendations for a 4-day itinerary, perfect for both first-time visitors and families with children. We explored all these locations with our 6-year-old child.

Let’s get started!

Accommodation

Choosing accommodation depends on the places you plan to visit. The closer to the main attractions, the more expensive it will be. However, it’s important to consider travel time and costs. In Italy, tolls on the autostrada are based on distance traveled.

We stayed near the town of Vipiteno. Seceda was an hour’s drive away, and Lake Braies was a 1.5-hour drive. We booked our accommodation through booking.com well in advance, about a month or a month and a half before our trip, with the option of free cancellation. The apartment for 5 nights for three people cost us 400 euros.

The apartment itself was amazing! A spacious living room with a fully equipped kitchen and panoramic mountain views, two bedrooms with double beds, a bathroom with a shower and bathtub, and a washing machine and dishwasher. The apartment was very warm and cozy, and the kitchen had everything we needed for a comfortable stay. We love comfort and cleanliness, and we felt right at home here. The hosts were very friendly and welcoming, even though their English wasn’t perfect, but it wasn’t a problem for us.

For 10 euros per person, you could use the sauna with panoramic mountain views. The town and shops were 15 km away along a beautiful serpentine road. And if you wanted to enjoy the wilderness and hiking, you could step outside the door and be on the mountain trails within 5 minutes.

It’s important to consider your driving skills, as the road to the apartment is very narrow and runs along the mountainside.

Living in this apartment, time seemed to stop. We could simply enjoy the view and sip fresh, homemade milk. It was a true “here and now” experience. We loved it here and will definitely come back.

Before the trip, we did a lot of research on the Dolomites and planned to visit many places. Of course, with a child, we didn’t expect to see everything, but we made a list of as many interesting places as possible so that we could always find something to do, considering the weather and how we were feeling.

Having everything planned out allowed us to spend more time enjoying our vacation instead of searching for information online.

Now, let’s talk about the places we visited

Day 1

Gilfenklamm Gorge

For our first day in the mountains, we chose a location close to our accommodation and without significant elevation changes. Gilfenklamm Gorge was the perfect fit. We reached it in 30 minutes, easily parked our car, and headed for the entrance.

How to Get to Gilfenklamm Gorge from Vipiteno (Sterzing)

The Gilfenklamm Gorge is located just a few kilometers from Vipiteno. Here are a few ways to get there:

  • By car: The drive takes about 10 minutes. Follow the signs for “Gilfenklamm” or “Stanghe”. There is paid parking near the gorge. If you want to save money, you can park a little further away and walk.
  • By public transport: There are regular buses from Vipiteno to the gorge. Check the schedule on the local public transport website (https://www.suedtirolmobil.info/en/).

Tip: It’s recommended to visit the gorge early in the morning or closer to the evening to avoid crowds.

If you park a little further away, parking is free, and you’re guaranteed to find a spot. It’s a 5-10 minute walk along the river from the parking lot to the entrance.

The entrance fee for our family was 14 euros. Adults pay 7 euros, children under 6 are free, and students pay 4 euros.

We started by walking along a forest path alongside the river. The incline gradually increased, and we crossed several bridges over the river. The river rushed by, washing over the stones. The water was crystal clear with a turquoise hue, and even with the strong current, we could see the stones at the bottom. We gradually ascended the gorge alongside the river.

Soon, we reached a section where the path was built on the steep slopes of the gorge. It was completely safe to walk on, as the path was sturdy and had handrails. The water below the path flowed even more rapidly here. We could see the powerful force of the water colliding with the rocks, washing over them, and in some places, cascading down from a height. The whirlpool created a multitude of splashes, and the air was so fresh that we just wanted to be there, breathe, and enjoy the power of the water.

We soon reached the exit, and the route through the gorge took us about an hour. There were three options for the return trip: go back down the same way through the gorge, take a 2 km path, or a 4 km path. We chose the 2 km path. It descended gently, and we enjoyed the mountain scenery as we walked.

Day 2. Seceda: Ascending the Peak of Dreams

One of the highlights of our trip was Seceda, a mountain peak with a gentle green slope at an altitude of 2,500 meters. This is a place that’s truly worth visiting.

After watching videos about Seceda on YouTube, we made it a priority to visit this peak. Of course, with a 6-year-old child, climbing to an altitude of 2,500 meters is not easy and required careful planning and preparation.

Not everything went according to plan, as often happens during travels. But as it turned out, it was for the better. We successfully reached the summit and safely descended, thanks in part to our luck with the weather. At such altitudes, the weather is unpredictable: a snowstorm can roll in within minutes, even in the middle of summer.

Now, let me tell you how we got there and climbed the mountain.

The drive from our accommodation near Vipiteno to the Val Gardena valley, where Seceda is located, took about an hour. Most of the way was on a smooth highway, and the last 20% was on a serpentine road, climbing up the mountain. The toll on the highway was 2 euros each way.

We had planned to take the cable car from the town of Ortisei but couldn’t find parking. So, we decided to leave our car at the Col Raiser cable car station.

Ascending with the Col Raiser Cable Car:

A one-way ticket for an adult cost 20 euros, and for a child aged 6 to 13, it was 13 euros. We opted for round-trip tickets: 30 euros for an adult and 17 euros for a child. They didn’t charge us for our child’s ticket, so the ascent and descent cost us 60 euros.

The Col Raiser cable car took us to an altitude of 2,000 meters. From there, we had a breathtaking view of the mountains. The sun was shining brightly, and there was snow in some places.

Hiking to the Summit:

From this point, you can take an open cable car to Seceda, but it only operates from mid-June to the end of August. Since we were there in early June, we had to hike the remaining 500 meters.

We were very lucky with the weather, which is rare on Seceda, as the mountain is known for its changeable nature. We took our time going up and enjoyed the views. Martin periodically collected snow in a water bottle. As we got closer to the summit, a strong, cold wind started blowing, but the sun continued to shine brightly. We had to take our jackets on and off. In some places, we had to walk on snow.

After 3 hours, we reached the summit. It was our achievement – our first family hike in the mountains, and to such a height! It was especially an achievement for our 6-year-old son. He climbed the mountain without complaining of being tired. And at the top, a reward awaited him in the form of a snow slide, which he could slide down right into a snowdrift.

The view from the top of Seceda is breathtaking: a green mountain slope disappearing into the clouds and a sharp cliff. At the summit, we were lucky enough to see marmots. They amusingly emerged from their burrows and stood on their hind legs.

We walked along the cliff and began our descent. We descended much faster than we had ascended. Along the way, we played in the snow, ran, and rejoiced. This is truly a beautiful and amazing place.

Descent and Return:

Soon, we descended on the Col Raiser cable car to our car and drove home. We really enjoyed our time on Seceda. Dreams do come true!

Day 3: Jaufenpass and Lake Carezza

Waking up to raindrops and cloud-covered mountains instead of a panoramic view, we decided to sleep in a bit longer, still feeling tired from our Seceda hike. After a leisurely breakfast, we set out to explore the nearby mountain peak with the Jaufenpass mountain pass, hoping for better weather and stunning views.

A short 5-minute drive later, we were winding our way up the serpentine roads of the pass. Fifteen minutes later, we reached the summit at 2200 meters. Unfortunately, the weather was even worse up there. Thick clouds enveloped the entire mountain, reducing visibility to less than 50 meters.

We were surprised by the abundance of snow – almost everything was covered in it, thankfully, the road was clear. The temperature was a mere 4 degrees Celsius (39 degrees Fahrenheit), and it was early June! To top it off, a light rain was falling.

The Dolomites teach you to be prepared for nature’s whims and to be flexible with your plans. We got back in the car and started descending the serpentine roads of the pass. The Jaufenpass itself stretches all the way to Bolzano.

Descending about 1000 meters, the clouds parted, and the sun peeked out. We took advantage of the break in the weather and went for a short walk. We strolled along a mountain path, carefree, occasionally stepping over streams of water flowing down from the mountains. We simply enjoyed the moment.

In the mountains, temperature changes are common. Snow lies at higher altitudes, spring flowers bloom a bit lower, and in the valley, the sun shines brightly, and you can even find strawberries and other early berries ripening in some places.

Soon, we descended into the valley and reached the city of Bolzano. It’s a large city with many universities and students. We didn’t stop but continued on to Lake Carezza.

Lake Carezza

Lake Carezza, also known as the “Rainbow Lake” or the “Enchanted Lake of the Dolomites,” is a small but incredibly picturesque alpine lake located at an altitude of 1534 meters above sea level. It’s famous for its emerald and turquoise waters, which change color depending on the light and season, creating a mesmerizing spectacle. The lake is surrounded by a dense coniferous forest and the majestic peaks of the Latemar mountain range, reflected in its crystal-clear water. Swimming is prohibited in the lake, and it’s fenced off. A walk around the lake takes about 15 minutes. While visiting the lake is free, parking costs 6 euros per hour.

Visiting: The lake is open year-round. However, swimming is not allowed.

Parking: There is paid parking near the lake (6 euros per hour).

Trail around the lake: The walk around the lake takes about 15 minutes and doesn’t require any special physical preparation.

Photography: Lake Carezza is a popular spot for photo shoots. The best time for photography is early morning or late evening when the light is softest and most saturated.

Lake Carezza is one of the most beautiful places in the Dolomites and is definitely worth a visit to enjoy its beauty and unique atmosphere.

Day 4: Mountain Lakes

Our last night in the mountains was upon us, and it was time to move on. The morning greeted us with rain, and the mountains were once again shrouded in clouds. The downpour was so heavy that loading our belongings onto the roof rack seemed impossible. Occasionally, the clouds would part, revealing glimpses of the white mountain peaks.

After breakfast, the rain subsided, and we seized the opportunity to pack up the car. Our route would take us past several mountain lakes, which I’ll describe below, with our overnight stay booked in the small town of Lorenzago di Cadore.

Lake Braies (Lago di Braies)

Lake Braies, perhaps the most famous and Instagrammable lake in the Dolomites, is a crystal-clear body of water nestled amidst the mountains. The most popular photo spot is the view of the boathouse with its colorful rowboats.

The drive to the lake took about two hours. Upon arrival, we were met with overcast skies and pouring rain. Parking near the lake is paid, but there are ways to save. There are four parking lots near the lake, and the farther away you park, the cheaper it gets:

  • P1 Parcheggio Lago di Braies: Park and take a shuttle bus to the lake.
  • P2 Parcheggio Lago di Braies: 15-minute walk to the lake. 6 euros per day.
  • P3 Parcheggio Lago di Braies: 5-minute walk to the lake. 10 euros per day.
  • P4 Parcheggio Lago di Braies: Right next to the lake and, therefore, the most expensive.

Due to the rain, we parked in P3, donned our raincoats, and headed to the lake. Unfortunately, the weather prevented us from completing the full loop around the lake as planned. The walking trail around the lake takes about 20-30 minutes.

We walked a short distance along the shore, took some photos, and returned to the car. The weather was a disappointment, as we had wanted to enjoy a leisurely stroll around this beautiful lake. Swimming and drone photography are prohibited, as indicated by signs near the lake.

Back in the warm and dry car, we had a snack and continued our journey.

Lake Dobbiaco (Lago di Dobbiaco/Toblacher See)

Our next stop was Lake Dobbiaco. While not as striking as Lake Braies, it’s still nestled in the mountains and reflects their peaks in its waters.

We stopped briefly for a few photos before moving on. The heavy rain made it impossible to enjoy the scenery or take a walk.

Lake Misurina (Lago di Misurina)

We made a very brief stop at Lake Misurina. The rain was still coming down heavily. The lake itself is located right by the road, with the mountains a bit further in the distance, so it lacks the dramatic mountain lake effect of Braies or Dobbiaco. The area is dotted with hotels, and there are boat and paddleboat rentals available.

Had it not been for the rain, we would have stayed longer at each lake. Each one has its own unique beauty and offers opportunities for walks and activities. However, in the mountains, it’s essential to always be prepared for the unpredictable weather.

Cortina d’Ampezzo

After the lakes, we deviated slightly from our route and took the Tre Croci Pass (Passo di Tre Croci), which leads to the renowned ski resort town of Cortina d’Ampezzo.

This town is located in the heart of the Dolomites, making it an ideal base for exploring the region’s famous peaks and attractions, such as Lake Braies, Lake Sorapis, Lake Carezza, Seceda, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, and many others. Cortina hosted the Winter Olympics in 1956 and will host them again in 2026.

The town itself sits in a valley surrounded by towering mountain peaks. It boasts numerous restaurants, hotels, and apartments, making it the cultural hub of the Dolomites.

The Tre Croci Pass, which we drove through, winds through a deciduous forest. We stopped for a snack and I took some aerial photos of the town with my drone before continuing our journey.

We descended from the mountains into the valley where Cortina d’Ampezzo is located. After quickly passing through the town, we were soon approaching our overnight accommodation in the small town of Lorenzago di Cadore.

Lorenzago di Cadore

This charming little town is nestled in the mountains and has a population of just 500 people. It’s even known for being a summer retreat for the Pope.

There aren’t many hotels or restaurants here, and the town has a quiet, almost deserted feel.

We booked our stay at the Chalet Cridola hotel on the way. A triple room with breakfast cost us 70 euros.

After our drive, we were hungry and eager to eat. At the reception, we were told that the hotel restaurant was fully booked, and they couldn’t offer us anything. They recommended a local pizzeria, which we were quite happy about.

We headed straight for the pizzeria, a 3-minute walk away. It turned out to be exactly what we wanted – an authentic, local pizzeria frequented only by locals.

To be honest, we didn’t get to have dinner right away. The pizzeria opened at 7:00 PM, so we had to spend a couple of hours walking around. We strolled through the town’s streets, and time flew by. To our delight, the rain had stopped. We arrived at the pizzeria around 6:30 PM and were welcomed in. We ordered two pizzas, a glass of house wine each, and Italian pasta with cheese for our child.

The pizzas and pasta arrived quickly. It was incredibly delicious and authentic. The staff was very friendly and welcoming. Two pizzas were more than enough for us. Dinner for three cost us 32 euros.

After dinner, we took a short walk around the town and headed back to the hotel to rest.

Leave a Comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *